TRIP REPORT MADEIRA AND PORTO SANTO  June 21st – 5th July 2004
by Peter C. Meijer (meijerpc@worldonline.nl). Middenmeer, Holland.

From June 21 to July 5th 2004 my wife and I spent a holiday at Madeira. A family-holiday.
I have a lovely wife with a good heart to my hobby, hardly a problem to take her with me and do some birding next to nice trips and cultural visit. No problem for her to read in the car or to solve puzzles. Two days at Desertas Islands that’s out of the question. If I’d like to do that alone or at an other moment with birds no problem, but won’t stay two days alone in the hotel. Understandable. Keeping a relation means to invest by give and take.
The trip was offered by Kras Tour operator (www.kras.nl) and we paid € 939, -- per person for 15 days for a room with Ocean view at the second floor in Crown Plaza Resort Madeira, Estrada Monumental in Funchal (www.madeira.crownplaza.com)  a few kilometres from the excellent sea watching point Ponta da Cruz. If I liked a room on a higher level we had to pay € 30, -- extra. This was not necessary. Though the only advantage could be not to be troubled by the palmtrees along the esplanade.
We rented a car by Insular Car tel. 291 772 130.  Seven days for € 160,-- . This was a competitive price for a Renault Clio. I arranged that we could renew the rent for a few days during the second week for the normal price of € 22, -- per day. (Insurance and tax included). Both of us were allowed to drive. That didn’t cost extra money. We drove nearly 1000 km during this fortnight.

Preparation:

I bought the book a ‘Birdwatcher’s guide to Portugal and Madeira’.
Very good is the website: http://madeira.seawatching.net. Of course the reports about Madeira and the birds I could find. So thanks to all the persons that took the trouble of writing a report.
I also got a copy of an article in Birding World by James Siddle (Volume 17/4, May 2004), ‘Birding in Madeira’. 

Monday: 21st.

We had to leave early in the morning. Schiphol taxi. We took off at 6.45h. Punctual. We arrived at Funchal airport at 10.00 a.m and got the keys of the car. Off we drove to Funchal.
Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus), Plain Swift (Apus unicolor) and Yellow-legged Gull (Larus michaellis atlantis) and in front of our nice room a Blackbird (Turdus merula) were the first four species.
After we unpacked our suitcases I enjoyed the ocean view and Goldfinches (Carduelis carduelis parva), Canaries (Serinus canarius) and Common Tern (Sterna hirundo) were the next species to be seen. We enjoyed a good buffet and after that an European Soccermatch.

Tuesday: 22nd

After the well provided breakfast (which was open from 7.30 h) we left around 9.00 from Funchal via Monte to Ribeiro Frio where we parked, had coffee and after this social aspect I went to Balcðes. During the easy walk (which takes 15 minutes if you’re not interested in birds and plants) I heard many Madeira Fire crests (Regulus madeirensis)  a Lifer and I heard and saw  the first lifer: Madeira Chaffinches (Fringilla coelebs maderensis). After that Blackcaps (Sylvia atricapilla heineken) and Robins (Erithacus rubecula mycrorhynchus). At the top the Chaffinches came up to me to 1 meter. A magnificent miradour. 
It took me towards 11.30 am before I saw my second lifer: Long-toed Pigeon (Columba trocaz). This one flew from right to left down along the trees. Very good to watch. But that was it for today.
Besides Canaries and Goldfinches, one Pallid swift (Apus pallidus brehmorum).
After about 1½ hours I was back with my wife and we drove on and turned right towards Porto da Cruz. In the Birdwatcher’s Guide Ponta da Cruz is mentioned as Porto da Cruz (page 104) and I thought that Porto da Cruz was the famous sea watching point. I never read the Carlton Palmshotel and nobody knew it here. Though there were good spots to watch the sea, there wasn’t one near a hotel. At the small place I saw  Grey Wagtails ( Motacilla cinerea schmitzi).
Continuing the way to Caniçal we arrived near the harbour and got a drink. In a Palm tree I heard Sparrows and indeed Spanish Sparrows (Passer hispaniolensis) had their nesting places in a colony in the tree. 

Our next stop was Ponta de São Lourenço. At first I took the left road. There is a nice miradouro and the first Berthelot’s Pipit (Anthus berthelottii madeirensis). But where are the Rock Sparrows? And the path towards the end.
Well on our way down we took at a roundabout the other road to the right. Being conservative can have its advantages. At the end there was a parking and pick-nick place, a wonderful spot. Berthelot’s Pipit asked my attraction by its call. I climbed up the rock and went around it and heard Canaries and another call: my 3rd lifer: Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia madeirensis). About six or eight birds: male, juveniles and females, adults feeding young birds.
They were a bit restless, so I missed the yellow spot on the throat of the male.

Then we returned to Funchal and we looked for Ponta da Cruz the best sea watching point. Well to me it looked just as good as my balcony or the end of the lawn in front of it. And it was.
In the evening hundreds of Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea borealis) flew in front of the balcony over the ocean. And my first Little Shearwater (Puffinus assimilis baroli). The remarks of the Dutch Group with Peter Meininger, Erik Sanders and Gido Davidse about identification of the Little from Manx made me sharp. A group of five landed on the calm water and I could see the black eye and the white head pattern very well. Besides the birds were much smaller than the Cory’s.
Bulwer’s Petrel (Bulweria bulwerii) seems easier. Completely dark. In spite of this I looked for a bird with the brown bands across the upper wing before I took this one as my next lifer.
What a luxury to do sea watching from your room.

Wednesday 23rd

In the morning sea watching: Bulwer’s and lots of Cory’s also assembling in front of me at the ocean.
Our destiny: the Botanical Gardens. What a nice part of Funchal. The National History Museum in the Gardens have a lot of birds, but they could do for an educational or biological treatment.
I looked for Zino’s Petrel (Pterodroma madeira) which should be here, but the petrels were at the top shelves, too high to do proper identification.

The Loro Part is very interesting for these species.
Blackbird, Blackcap, Robin an Madeira Firecrests.

After leaving the Garden a Buzzard(Buteo buteo harteri) could be seen. Dark birds.
In the evening again sea watching: A few very nice Little Shearwaters and Bulwer’s Petrels and always the Cory’s.

Holland lost their match against the Czech with 2-3. It was an exciting match. But what are our chances?

Thursday 24th

As each morning the sea was calm. The weather nice. A rather flat ocean surface. Cory’s and some Bulwer’s. A Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus). Compared to the Atlantic Yellow-legged Gull the Lesser Black-backed looks smaller. Sometimes there is confusion possible if the Yellow-legged’s mantel is so dark that I had to watch better to know for sure whether it is the one or the other species.
Then a surprise: a Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) was flying towards the west (Ponta da Cruz).
Suddenly a strange call. Does someone holds a cagebird? I saw a bird that reminded me of a Myna (Acrydotheres tristis). It was rather restless and flew away with large (white?) patches in its wings. It flew also like a Tristram’s Crackle (Onychognathus tristramii) a bird I saw in Israel. Or like a Hoopoe.  I couldn’t get the right identification. In the second week I heard it again, but couldn’t find it. Maybe an escape.

Our first aim this morning was a better view of Long-toed Pigeon. So we went to Fajă da Nogeira. Easily to find with the instructions in the reports and the website. A better place to look for the Long-toed later in the morning. I saw three nice birds with my Zeiss 10x42D. As always this was not enough so I took my scope and ………..the birds flew away. I missed the yellow bill. 
This time we took the left side of the road and drove to Faial, Santana, Săo Jorge and St. Vicente. What beautiful scenery. Marvellous viewing points. Everywhere Blackcap singing and Blackbirds. It seemed there are only male-birds. Or is this subspecies very dark in both sexes? An occasional Kestrel.  In the evening: a good dinner and some time seawatching.

Friday 25th

Sea watching: Cory’s enough. Beautiful views. Though I noticed that the white part at the tail base is diffucult to see. The yellow bill flickers in the sun. The brown feathers are well to be seen.
One Little Shearwater and probably a Manx, but I couldn’t identify the Manx for 100%. As on the other days also some Bulwer’s.
We drove again towards St. Vicente, but took the road to Boca da Ecumeada. Nice view and good Cappuccino.
We drove on and at Pedras (ER 110) we saw a couple that looked like real birdwatchers. The first we met. They were English. Their son was a twitcher and they liked to watch birds and knew the common birds. Here they saw our first Linnets (Carduelis cannabina guentheri). They told me that in the hotel area to the west of Funchal they had seen an Eleonora’s Falcon. They knew  this species at Mallorca. It is an accidental bird, so it could be.
We went on, passed Bica da Cana which is worth visiting earlier in the day. Turned towards Ribeira da Janella and Porto Moniz. I realized that sea-watching here can be best done by staying there in a hotel. From Funchal it can be an hour’s drive according to Amilcar Vasconzelos, but that’s for people that are used to driving in mountainous areas. For me it would take more than 1½ hour and I should go the moment the first light appears. So not the place for me to watch seabirds this holiday.
After a cool beer we drove to Ponta do Pargo. Near the lighthouse I tried to find Quail (Coturnix coturnix), Red-legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa), Spectacled Warbler (Sylvia conspicillata bella), but nothing of the kind. A Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) was the profit of this point.

Zino’s  Petrel

Amilcar Vasconzelos got many good references from birdwatcher’s that longed for the experience to be witness of one of the endangered species in the world. Zino’s Petrel.
Amilcar is a nice guide. He picked me up at 21.30h. The Greek did a lot to win from France and I had to leave the room for another excitement. Around 22.15h we arrived at the top of Pico do Arieiro. The weather was comfortable. The warm clothing was a bit too and was responsible for a lot of sweat during the trip to the spot where it must happen. I was rather nervous and the good provided path went up and down and took a lot of my breath. I was glad to have stopped smoking more then ten years ago. But still. Enjoying live provides me with some extra weight.
At 22.45h  we were standing under the moon that was half way it’s fullness. ‘The Zino’s don’t like light’, Amilcar said. ‘Then they don’t call very often. They prefer darkness’.  ‘What does he mean?’ I thought. ‘Is he trying to prepare me upon a minor experience? Well, let’s see’. 
He had written me and asked, if I was a lucky birder. Sometimes I am and of course I have my dips. Will this be a dip?
The story about Curral das Freiras was wonderful. Down there was a parishpriest and a Nun’s Cloister. After the nun’s died it was told by the shepherds that they could hear their souls up in the mountains. Later it appeared to be the sounds of the Zino’s.
It became 2300h: I heard the first call. Amilcar didn’t, but I knew the call from Leo Boon’s fantastic video: ‘Birds of the Macaronesian Islands’ (www.cursorius.com). Amilcar saw a glimpse of a bird and I didn’t. The clear moon had the advantage that glimpses of Zino’s Petrel could be seen. It was like Bats flying under a lamplight. And regularly we could hear the calls. Partly like a Tawny Owl. Wonderful to be hear against the turning of the day and be a witness of all this. I liked it very much. Against 23.45h I had heard enough and seen…..maybe four birds, said Amilcar. Only ten percent is seen. And there are about 25 pair. At a new spot there are 25 pairs. So there are more pairs than a number of years ago. We went back. A terrific opportunity.
Unfortunately the parking place at the top is too far away from the colony. You won’t hear the sounds. Besides by letting you guide you also give a little bit of help to these threatened birds.
Around 0.30 h we were back at the hotel. Amilcar had explained his name: Vas con zelos: in former times people that had committed certain crimes were send to Madeira. If you were there you were marked. So you go with a mark (Vas con zelos). Interesting to know.

Saturday June 26th
The excitement this evening was the winning of the Dutch team on the Swedes by penalties. What a noise in Funchal.
We visited Funchal and found stamps with very nice birds.

Sunday June 27th

We drove to Fajă da Nogeira. I’d like to see the yellow bill of the Long-toed Pigeon. It took some time and perfect glances of the bill, but only rose in colour. Do males have a yellow bill?
Buzzard, Grey Wagtail and the always singing Blackcap.
Around 17.00h seawatching from our balcony. A Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) flew by towards the west and of course Cory’s and some Bulwer’s. But from now on no more Little Shearwaters!

Monday June 28th

Today we went to Porto Santo. We had informed about the tickets and paid attention to 1st and 2nd class. Indeed there is a difference.
The Touroperator said that there was no necessity to buy a 1st class ticket, because in her experience one could go everywhere. We arranged a trip with transfer to the harbour and at Porto Santo to a hotel and got a 2nd class ticket and experienced that it was not possible to enter the 1st class. Pity?
On the other hand I had good views at sea from the back of the ship. Many Cory’s and tens of Bulwer’s. Never one Bulwer’s at close distance.  
On the island we walked around and asked for a car. But a car could be rent for € 38,- and for a day. It was warm and in my opinion not the best time to see Spectacled warbler and so on. A night at the island is better and then drive on early in the morning. Spanish Sparrows were everywhere in the villages and the botanical garden. Blackcaps no problem, like Blackbirds and Canaries. A Kestrel was one of the species today. So was Pallid Swift.
In the afternoon we arranged an island tour (€ 10,- per person) but it didn’t give any new birds besides two Grey Herons. At each of the two reservoirs in the east was there was one standing. The Tanque was nearly dry. No Coots and no quails or other new species.
On our way back again Thousands of Cory’s and about twenty Bulwer’s. Unfortunately no Fea’s White-faced or Madeiran Petrel.
Our meal on the island: Picanha Grelhada was excellent. So were the Lapas grelhado which we didn’t eat that day but on our last day in Funchal. Delicious.
I bought some stamps with Birds of Madeira (Turtle Dove, Soft-plumage Petrel and more). I was told that in September the hunters shoot Doves on migration and Rabbits. The only birds I can think of are feral doves or the Turtle Doves. The last ones are protected?

Tuesday June 29th 

A day’s rest in our hote room. I had a good book on Europe by a Dutch author Geert Mak. Very interesting to read. A total of 1100 pages. I had already read 450 at home.
In front of our room over the lawn there are always flying Plain Swifts. I studied them constantly, because I like to get the good ‘jizz’ and identification. It is not always easy to identify swifts e.q. in Indonesia, I experienced. I always look twice in case of Pallid Swift. I also pay attention to the calls. Sometimes they are heard and then there is a mating. Taking part of a second. Somebody asked to pay attention to this. And I write down what happens, the time and so on.
So also in the afternoon when I don’t like reading and seawatching has no sense. I watch the swifts. Suddenly I see a white rump. Could it be reflection of the sun? No because the other swifts flying around haven’t such a white patch. Could it be a partially albinistic bird? No the white rump is so obvious and so well marked. A little Swift? No because this bird has the same size as the Plain Swifts and the tail is just as forked like Plain Swifts I’m watching.
I took my book and the only conclusion I could reach, is that this was a White-rumped Swift
 (Apus caffer) a lifer for me and possible a new species to the island. I didn’t see the white edges of the secondaries. But maybe these are not so obvious. The bird flew in front of me during 2 minutes and then flew around the corner and I never saw it again. So an albinistic bird would have flew around with the other Plain Swifts. I was positive about the identification.

Wednesday June 30th

The normal seawatching. Many Cory’s. A Little Egret going from West to East.
Two Grey Wagtails on the lawn. 
Holland lost from Portugal and the streets were full of cheering people. Blowing horns, fireworks, whistling and glad that Portugal had reached the final of the championship. The Dutch didn’t play well.

Thursday  July 1st

Again we rented a car for three days. There were some spots left to visit:
Machico: Along the river: Blackcap, Canary, Atlantic Yellow-Legged Gulls, Common Terns, Grey Wagtail, Blackbird. 
Like in a great part of the island people are working on the infrastructure. European projects. In the part of the river closest to the sea they were busy. In the second part where a footpath gives an opportunity to look into the reedbeds and plants I saw the Common Waxbills (Estrilda astrild)  5 of them). What a beauties.
In Caniçal we visited ‘Musea da Baleia’. Interesting small museum about Whale hunting.
To Ponta de São Lourenço. You know the yellow spot of the Rock Sparrow. It took some time and energy. I had to walk the rough path towards the end a bit, but I found Rock Sparrows (about 8) and saw the yellow spot on the throat. Also a Buzzard, Canaries (a group of 12), Berthelot’s Pipit ( more then 10) and two Rock Pigeons. Nice examples.
We drove to Santo António da Serra and the pool with hundreds of Yellow-legged Gulls. Nothing else. Of course Blackcap, Blackbird, Firecrest, but no Spectacled Warbler.
Advice follow the instructions in the article of James Siddle but when turning right after the golf club house, take the first unpaved path and climb up 200 meters.

In the evening I went to Garajau. I was there just after 22.00h. Probably too late for the Barn Owl.
I stayed till 23.45h. Heard the Cory’s calls and I could imagine that long ago the sailors thought that drowned fellow companions made these noises. I paid attention to possible Madeiran Petrels, but didn’t hear anything that was alike the calls on my CD (Andreas Schulze: vogelstimme).

Friday July 2nd

We drove to Curral das Freiras. Beautiful sceneries along the way. Pallid Swifts, Fire Crests. We drove as far as we could and reached the end of the world. We had to turn round and drive back.
Camacha was our last destination. Pottery and ingenious and artistic cane work.
In the evening to Ponto da Cruz: there at 21.55h some glimpses of the Barn Owl.
Drive from Funchal to the hotel area follow Estrada Monumental, pass the Lido and follow the road in the direction of Ribeira Brava. After hotel Due Torres turn left: Strada da Ponta da Cruz. Follow that road till the end. There are steps going down a little. The Barn Owl came from the right and flew to the left. 

Saturday 3rd

Last day we had a car. Again the route to the west. The route to Bica da Cana gave Berthelot’s Pipit (near a fortress) Buzzard a nest of Kestrels (5), Grey Wagtails.
Bica da Cana was very interesting but looking for a Spectacled Warbler was not awarded. Lots of Blackbirds, Linnets, Goldfinches and Canaries.

Ponto del Lago for the last time: Pallid Swift, Plain Swift, Berthelot’s Pipit, Blackcap and Blackbird.

Sunday 4th

The last possibility to inspect the Port and the Marina. I read the advice to be there as early as possible. I was at the Marina at 7.00 (half an hour earlier it was still dark). I walked tot the west of the Marina and passed the fish-restaurants. There is a pier from where I heard a first call, sounding like a Spotted Redshank and I knew: Roseate tern (Sterna dougalli). I saw six birds and one juvenile asking for food. Marvellous birds. But at 7.30 they were gone! 
And close to the pier west of the restaurants a Turnstone (Arenaria interpres). One moulting bird. In the park Goldfinches and a Pallid Swift.

32 species: 7 Lifers, 9 new subspecies, one bird new to this century and one magnificent escape.

On Monday 5th we said goodbye. A lovely Island. Friendly people. Very relaxed, fine weather. Worth to go again and then also to the Desertas.

SPECIES LIST

(Mute Swan: Cygnus olor) a few in a pond in the botanical garden of Porto Santo and in Funchal.
Red-legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa): looked for at Porto da Lago and Porto Santo: not found.

 1L	Zino’s Petrel (Pterodroma madeira): heard and seen: Pico de Arieiro. 
 2L	Bulwer’s Petrel (Bulweria bulwerii): nearly every day. A few (10) to about 50 spread in a few hours. Even among our way from Porto Santo to Funchal.
 3	Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea borealis) Every day in front of the hotel at the ocean in the morning gathering and in the evening. Thousands of them.
 4L	Little Shearwater (Puffinus assimilis baroli): only some during the first week in front of the hotel room.
 5	Little Egret (Egretta garzetta): 2 flying in front of the hotel: 24/6 and 
 6	Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea): one flying in front of the hotel across the ocean and two at Porto Santo, each by one of the two reservoirs.
 7Ls	Buzzard (Buteo buteo harteri): Ponta do Pargo; Funchal; Ponta de São Lourenço; 
 8	Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus canarensis): in front of the hotel a pair and at many places.
 9	Turnstone (Arenaria interpres): one west of the Marina in Funchal.
10	Yellow-legged Gull (Larus michaellis atlantis) Everywhere along the coast and hundreds in the reservoir near the Golf club in Santo da Serra.
11	Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus). A few near the Marina and between the Yellow-Legged Gulls in front of the hotel.
12	Common Tern (Sterna hirundo). Several in front of the hotel and in the ports and marinas. Also in the harbour at Porto Santo.
13C	Roseate tern (Sterna dougalli): 6 birds west of the Marina, Funchal.
14	Rock Dove (Columba livia): two birds at Ponta de São Lourenço. 
15L	Long-toed Pigeon (Columba trocaz): at the well-known spots a few birds.
16Ls	Barn Owl ( Tyto alba schmitzi): one at the well-know spot of Ponta da Cruz.
17	Plain Swift (Apus unicolor) : everywhere. I saw mating in the air about three times.
18L	White-rumped Swift ( Apus caffer): one bird.
19	Pallid swift (Apus pallidus brehmorum) Some places; Sometimes I had to look twice to know for sure. Not always easy, though the jizz is clear.
20	Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) one bird at Ponta da Lago.
21Ls	Berthelot’s Pipit (Anthus berthelottii madeirensis): Several places and on Porto Santo. 
22Ls	Grey Wagtail ( Motacilla cinerea schmitzi): everywhere in the island. From the lawn in our hotel, the centre of Funchal, the Marina till in the mountains of Paúl da Serra.
23Ls	Robin (Erithacus rubecula mycrorhynchus): not everywhere. In the wooden parts.
24Ls	Blackbird (Turdus merula cabrerae): the most abundant bird. This subspecies is very dark in male as well as female?Only males?
25Ls	Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla Heineken) with the Blackbird everywhere. Always singing.
26L	Madeira Firecrest (Regulus madeirensis): heard in many places. Not always easy to find in the trees.
27	Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispaniolensis): Caniçal and abundant in Porto Santo.
28L	Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia madeirensis): only at Ponta de São Lourenço.
29Ls	Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs maderensis): many places. Nice bird.
30	Canary (Serinus canaries): many places; also Porto Santo.
31	Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis parva): Several places: also at Pica da Cana.
32Ls	Linnet (Carduelis cannabina guentheri) Surroundings: Paúl da Serra, Bica da Cana and Ponto Lago.
33	Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild) : well-know spot at Machio. What a pity I cannot count this bird as a lifer. A beauty.

On many occasions we saw schools of unidentified Dolphins travelling westwards off the coast. Occasionally a Rabbit. Wall lizards. Two species or two colour varieties? Green and brown. I saw frogs and saw them calling. But maybe there was also a toad at Fajă da Nogeira. The same sound could be heard at Balcðes. 

L 	= Lifer
Ls	= Lifer, subspecies.
C	= new bird for this century.