Madeira Trip Report: Easter 2003  	
By Ned Brinkley, Cape Charles, Virginia USA

Day 1:  18 April 2003, Friday

Arrival late at 10:45 a.m. on Madeira on Sata International. Plain Swifts, an endemic shared with the Canary Islands, already in evidence at the airport, but not trivial to tell them at good distance from Pallid Swifts, which also occur here in small numbers in the summer.  

Rented a Renault Clio from Amigos do Auto for the four days at E 127.93. One Roseate Tern and about 6 Common Terns at Punta Gorda, Island Canaries all around the neighborhoods, a few Blackcaps, Blackbirds, and House Sparrows. Most of the rest of the passerines are out of town. Plenty of Yellow-legged Gulls about, mostly worn 2cy birds but some adults.

Small birding party assembled at 15:55 and went to marina, where boat for 3-hour sea cruise.  Came across first bunch of Cory’s Shearwaters at 32 36.276’ N, 16 58.103’ W, and then sailed mostly westward through many more. Total about 800 Cory’s, 3 Little, 3 Sooty, 18 Manx Shearwaters, all ‘low’ numbers according to locals. Rather early for Bulwer’s Petrel (only 2 seen) and far too early for Fea’s Petrel yet, which suggests that small gadflies at this time of year should be Zino’s Petrel. Laid off the point that is in same longitude with Main Ledge of nesting petrels, hoping for a bird lying offshore, waiting until dark to return to nest-site, but no luck this time. This strategy has worked well for Bermuda Petrel (Cahow) but is considerably more challenging here.  

Pizza party with good pizza from La Carbonara (across street from harbor in mall) at dock. Little Egret, 7 Roseate Terns, 20 Common Terns, and 1 Ruddy Turnstone in the harbor. 

At 22:00, a guided tour to Pico Arieiro (second highest peak on island) for try at Zino’s Petrel on the nesting cliffs was most successful and thrilling. It’s about 1 hr 15 min to drive here from Funchal. This area is rather incredible: jagged peaks all around, with clouds beneath you, a full moon illuminating a hike through the mountains that would be harrowing to someone with a fear of heights, with drops of almost 1000 m in some places. The hike along loose stony pathways, with lots of steep climbs and several drops, is difficult at the altitude of 5811 ft, with a strong cold wind almost invariable here. Rain is not rare here, apparently, but we had a dry night.  After 20 minutes, one comes to an area with breeding Manx Shearwaters, whose varied and wild calls are unforgettable. In another 15 minutes, one comes to the Zino’s Petrel nesting areas at the Main Ledge site. There were probably three pairs engaged in extensive courtship when we arrived, and I got about 20 min. of tape of this, with a bit of wind noise. One could see the birds as they flew around in pairs in the gorge, silhouetted against the clouds below and then nicely overhead, as they made swooping flights just above eye-level, when details of plumage could be seen fairly easily by moonlight. The experience was unbelievable. The call sounds quite different from that of Cahow, ending lower than it begins, something like a cross between Tawny Owl and a small dog. We trekked back around 0:30, in bed by 02:00.    

Day 2: 19 April 2003, Saturday

A morning seawatch from the porch of the lodgings produced 80 atlantis Yellow-legged Gulls, 600+ Cory’s, 1 Little, 30 Manx Shearwaters. These proportions seem similar to those seen July-September, when Scandinavian birders come here to do some hardcore seawatching. Almost no one comes in springtime, and Bulwer’s Petrels are just getting in (and are missable until mid-May, I think). One trip report, by Jon Hornbuckle, notes several gadfly petrels from near the airport during an April 1990 seawatch. Little Shearwater is not the easiest of identifications at substantial distance, I felt. After lunch, drove around the east end of the island, from Machico to Caniçal to Punto São Lourenço. Birds here were a bit tough. Much habitat here for local (bella) race of Spectacled Warbler appears to be totally gone, owing to construction of a factory. This species is apparently still findable on the island between Poiso (which is the turn off the main Rua do Til toward Pico de Arieiro) and Santo da Serra. Did find Berthelot’s Pipits (3), an endemic shared with the Canary Islands, Rock Petronia (1), Island Canaries (20+), Madeiran Chaffinch (1), and in about an hour’s seawatching from the point, 15 Cory’s Shearwaters, 2 Arctic Terns (ad.), and several Common Terns.  Seawatching here is surprisingly poor, it seems.

The area around the main airport does seem to hold some possibilities for seawatching. The Santa Cruz area, essentially the exit nearest the airport, has a great view of the Desertas group, with Bugio being the farthest from Madeira (here appears on the right); this is the nesting island for Fea’s Petrel in the summer. One could seawatch here either from the parking area just west of or just east of the airport itself (the latter being before you pass underneath the runway [yes], which is on huge pilings).  

Checked out various vessels for probable boat trip.  Most are too small for a half-tour (7 pax), or too large! The Scotia is a possibility.   

Evening seawatch from Ponta da Cruz, 18:00 to 20:00: 1300+ Cory’s, 5 Little, 90+ Manx.  
	
Day 3: 20 April 2003, Sunday

Morning saw a ‘beehive’ of feeding shearwaters over a school of small dolphin (apparently Striped Dolphin) from the porch. About 50 birds, mostly Cory’s, with a few Manx/Little.  

The ferry to Porto Santo at 08:00 was sold out (Easter Sunday). The old Lobo Marinho will be replaced in a few weeks by a much larger vessel; will try the new one next time. Reportedly some chance at Monk Seal from this ferry.

Left by 0730 for Balcões, to look for the endemic Trocaz Pigeon. Parked at Victor’s bar in the mountains, about 70 min. drive from downtown Funchal. Walked downhill on opposite side of road alongside a levada; followed this for 30 min. At only fork, turn R., then a few more meters to stunning overlook. Met Danish birder coming out who was pigeonless. Found a roosting pigeon within 60 seconds of setting up (minus time to get GPS reading). Spot is 32 44.493’ N, 16 53.420’ W.  In this location, the pigeons are surely scope birds. Should plan to arrive around 0715 or 730, really, to see them flying around. Rather like a cross between Wood Pigeon and Ring-tailed Pigeon. Lots of easy Madeiran Firecrests and Madeiran Chaffinches, with their very distinctive and different vocalizations, along trail. A few Robins and Blackbirds.  

From here, drove to Faial (30 min), then to Santana (15 min), then to the parking area of Queimadas (15 min.). Walked 5.5 km for about 2 hours, scanning constantly for pigeons in some very nice Laurel forest habitat. Found 6 pigeon feathers but no birds; bad time of day. Did hear one pigeon. 

Evening seawatch from Ponta da Cruz, 18:00 to 20:00: 600+ Cory’s, 1-3 Little, 45+ Manx Shearwaters, 4 Roseate Terns (close).