Madeira 23rd to 30th December 1998
David B. Collinge
Email: david-c@biobase.dk 

(Created 5th January 1999) 

Contents: Summary - Funchal - Ribeira Frio/Balcões - Santana and the north coast - Porto Moniz and West Point: Ponta do Pargo - Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo - Encumeada and Ribeira Brava - Curral das Freiras and Estreito de Cãmara de Lobos - Ponta de São Lourenço and Caniçal (30/12) - Systematic list - Comments and travel information - Literature. 
Summary
A 1 week walking holiday. Madeira is not a place where you can expect to see many species of bird - we saw a total of 29 (I saw 45 in Denmark on 1st January with relatively little effort). However, these are of high quality as they include two endemics (Long-toed Pigeon and Freira), and a further 3 species confined to Madeira and the Canaries (not surprisingly Canary as well as Plain Swift and Berthelot's Pipit). DO NOT visit in December if you want to see seabirds. There are none (apart from gulls). Most of the reports we had were from April or August - and there are lots of seabirds then (see trip report list and reports from Andreas Bruun and the Piiponens). The ornithological highlights for me were the brightly coloured Firecrests and striking chaffinches. I wonder whether anyone is studying these closely - the Canary Chiffchaff and more controversially the Canary Goldcrest have just been elevated to full species level. I did not see the Long-toed (Trocaz) Pigeons very well; I only had flight views. I suspect that the Greylag and Skylarks were relatively unusual observations. I dipped Rock Sparrow and Spectacled Warbler. Do not be deterred by the lack of birds: Madeira is a magnificent place to visit, though I am not sure that there is much to do if you are not into rambling or the magnicient flora. Note - (x; y) refers to the bird counts for two places listed in the heading. 
We met and exchange experience with Jonathan Dean and family. His report was posted on EBN 5th January 1999. and appears as http://biobase.dk/~david-c/madeira-dean.htm This report was posted on EBN 6th January 1999. 
Itinerary
Funchal (and Cãmara de Lobos)
We were based near the Lido on the western outskirts of Funchal - this is about 10 minutes drive from the start of the motorway and 20 minutes walk into the centre of town (see Additional notes). Most observations were from 24/12 when we walked into the centre of town, up to the Botanic gardens and back along the sea front. We then drove to Cãmara de Lobos at dusk. Observations from the other days are mainly from the Lido area where there is (currently - but how long?) are large patch of "waste" ground. Our "hotel" - a converted villa - overlooked this. 
GREY HERON (30/12 flying near Boa Nova), CATTLE EGRET (between 5 and 8 on the waste ground just west of the Lido, they roosted on the stack - pillar of rock just offshore, conveniently illuminated - allowing us to see them at night), Sparrowhawk, Buzzard, Kestrel (2), OYSTERCATCHER (28/12, Lido), (Ruddy) Turnstone (24/12, 10 on the concrete blocks on the beach by the bus terminal, 2 by the marina), Herring Gull, Yellow-legged Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull (graellsii 24/12 at Cãmara de Lobos; 28/12 at Lido), Black-headed Gull (adult and a 2nd year bird 24/12 at the Ribeira de Santa Lucia - the concrete blocks on the promenade in line with the end of the harbour wall), Rock Dove (urban Funchal), Plain Swift (up to 20, but I failed dismally in stringing Pallid Swift - I tried hard on several occasions), Grey Wagtail, Robin, Blackbird, Blackcap, Firecrest, Chaffinch, Canary (including a flock of 12 at Lido on 29/12), Goldfinch. 
I was convinced that the "Herring" Gulls were mainly L. argentatus in Funchal harbour on the 24/12, when I saw only a few yellow-legged individuals (and a couple of adult Lesser Black Backs L. fuscus graellsii). The herrings were clearly paler, but I didn't look at eye colour. This was the only day when I saw any number of gulls in Funchal. The gulls were clearly Yellow-legged (L. cachinnans atlantis) at other sites - Ribeira Brava and São Lourenço). The young atlantis are much darker headed than the cachinnans we see in DK. 
Ribeira Frio/Balcões 
(25/12, am short walk 27 - in Underwood - see literature) 
Buzzard (2), Long-toed Pigeon (5 - 1 good view at Barcões, others were above Ribeiro Frio at a small lay-by before the road curves left before entering Ribeiro Frio - there is a signposted steep, cobbled path down to Ribeiro Frio from this layby), Plain Swift (3 in the valley below Barcões), Grey Wagtail (at the famous trout farm - which is tiny, and therefore easy to miss), Robin (several heard, none seen), Blackbird, Blackcap, Firecrest, Chaffinch (5). 
Santana and the north coast (25 to 26/12)
We stopped for lunch at Faja do Mar (Faial). A Buzzard, Kestrel (5), Goldfinch (8), Canary (5). We took Underwood's walk 19, cutting off at Ribeira de São Jorge. This starts 1.7 Km west of Santana in an unassuming manner, through an agricultural landscape (it would almost be possible to use a tractor here, in stark contrast to virtually anywhere else on the island) above the cliffs, but then, essentially without warning you find yourself descending some 250m into the gorge of the river. We walked out along the track at the bottom of the cliffs and returned to Santana via the road. 
On 26/12 we drove along the coast to Porto Moniz, stopping for views on the way, and in São Vicente. 
(figures for 25/12; 26/12 - includes figures along coast to Porto Moniz) GREYLAG GOOSE 25/12 - a real surprise, this was roosting on a shingle bank in the estuary of the Ribeira de São Jorge; Later it flew up the river (See report - only 210 K file), Buzzard (4; 5), Kestrel (3; 7), Common Sandpiper - heard in the estuary of the Ribeira de São Jorge (25/12), (Herring)/Yellow-legged Gull (1; 17), Rock Dove (13; 12, 15, 3 presumably domestic), Plain Swift (8; 7) - excellent views along the top of the cliff at Ribeira de São Jorge, Grey Wagtail (5; 9), Robin (5; 6), Blackbird (5; 6), Blackcap (7; 5), Firecrest (0; 2), Chaffinch (6; 0), Canary (flocks of 20, 10 and 6; 30, 8 and a further 10 as singles), Goldfinch (7; 0), Spanish Sparrow (0;1) 
Porto Moniz; Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela and Ponta do Pargo (26/12)
We spent lunch overlooking the harbour (and the most impressive breakers I have seen for many a year) then drove up the hill to the Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela (Underwood walk 41). This is an impressive walk into a shady valley. Not a lot of birds but fine scenery and lots of flowers. We then continued to the lighthouse at Ponto do Pargo. This area is much more bare, and was one of the few areas we visited where there were meadows on the top of the 200 m? cliffs (bird counts: Porto Moniz; Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela; Ponta do Pargo). 
Buzzard (3; 3; 1), Kestrel (2; 0; 1), Herring/Yellow-legged Gull (5; 0; 5), Rock Dove (0; 0; 10), SKYLARK (a flock of 31 flew round the Ponta do Pargo a bit then disappeared NW), Plain Swift (0; 0; 8), WHITE WAGTAIL (winter male alba at the only campsite on Madeira, also at Ponto do Pargo), Robin (0 ;2), Blackbird (1; 5; 1), Blackcap (1; 1), Firecrest (0; 16), Chaffinch (0; 14), Canary, (8; 2; 11). 
Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo and back (Underwood, walk 20) 27/12.
This is a walk of some 10 Km with about 1000 m ascent and descent, took 7 hours including pauses. The Pico do Arieiro car Posada (car park, bar, restaurant and accommodation) is at l800 m (Madeira's 3rd highest peak). Pico Ruivo at 1862 m is Madeira's highest mountain. Our first attempt on 25/12 failed due to low cloud. So we rapidly changed our plans when we saw the clear blue skies on the 27th and went back. Cloud formed below us during the morning, so we walked back above the clouds. Note - the 5th edition of Underwood states that one should take the left hand trail after the Pico do Gato tunnel. This western trail is currently derelict and it is the eastern trail, which goes high over the shoulder of Pico Moledo (the second highest peak). This affords excellent views down the Ribeira Seca (Balcões) down to Penha de Águia (Now there's a joke - when was there an eagle on Madeira? But I suppose the same can be said about many eagle rocks round and about). The vegetation approached the alpine on exposed faces but also included forests of tree heaths; a remarkable sight, 3 m high heather. 
Buzzard (4), Kestrel (1), Herring/Yellow-legged Gull (9, yes, at 1800 m), Long-toed Pigeon - too high, no laurels, no pigeons), Grey Wagtail (seen just below the car park on 25/12), Berthelot's Pipit (single at the first view point), Robin (3 - including the only decent view all week, competing for crumbs with the Chaffinches at the Pico Ruivo summit cairns), Firecrest (5), Chaffinch (7 - 4 of which were fighting for crumbs at the top of Pico Ruivo), Canary (3). No Alpine Choughs, Golden Eagles, Wallcreepers ........ 
Encumeada and Ribeira Brava (28/12)
We followed Underwood's walk 35 (Folhadal and the Norte and Rabaças Levadas). This is a walk of contrasts. The Levada das Rabaças follows the south side of the hills at about 1000m. The habitat here is sunny grassy hillsides. The Levada de Norte branches north through a tunnel emerging in Folhadal, a wilderness of cloud forest (and it was cloudy at the time). Fine contrast. We descended (by car!) to Ribeira Brava and then drove back along the south coast, stopping at Cabo Girão - Europe's highest sea cliff at a sheer 580m (bird counts: Encumada; Ribeira Brava). 
Sparrowhawk (0; 3), Buzzard (1; 2), Kestrel (3; 0), Yellow-legged Gull (about 30 on the beach gave good views), Rock Dove (lots in Ribeira Brava), Long-toed Pigeon (between the two tunnels on the Levada das Rabaças, it flew out of a solitary clump of laurel trees just below us and disappeared further round the hillside) Plain Swift (0; 5), Grey Wagtail (4; 0), Robin (9; 0), Blackbird (4; 0), Blackcap (2; 0), Firecrest (18; 0), Chaffinch (2; 0), Canary (0; 3). 
Curral das Freiras and Estreito de Cãmara de Lobos (29/12)
We drove up to the view point at Eira do Serrado and followed Underwood's walk 3 to Curral das Freiras. This is a spectacular descent of 500 m over the edge of the extinct volcano crater along the old road (the only access until the 1950's). We hitched back up to Eira do Serrado and drove on to Estreito de Cãmara de Lobos where we took their route 7 (Levada do Norte at 550 m) for about to Garachico, returning along the road. This started (and ended) through vineyard and other agriculture (this is very picturesque as none of the "fields" are larger than 5 x 10 m) but follows the contours into the Caixa valley. We took the wrong exit from the motorway (the first west of Cãmara de Lobos) and ended up on a dead end up a valley, below the motorway - our maps were simply inadequate for this area. 
Sparrowhawk (0; 1), Buzzard (1; 1), Kestrel (2; 4), Yellow-legged Gull (5; 3), Rock Dove (0; 22), Long-toed Pigeon (2 just above Curral das Freiras; 2 pigeons in the Caixa valley afforded an all too brief view), Plain Swift (0; 29 including a flock of 15), Grey Wagtail (1; 1), Robin (0; 1), Blackbird (2; 2), Blackcap (0; 3), Firecrest (3), Chaffinch (1), Canary (1; 25), Goldfinch (0; 11), Spanish Sparrow. We dipped on the Rock Sparrows seen by Jonathon at the first view point. 
Ponta de São Lourenço and Caniçal (30/12)
If there is a single place which I would not miss on a trip to Madeira, this is it. The scenery is breathtaking, and we had clear views of the Desertas to the south, Porto Santo to the North and the snow-clad Ruivo/Arieio mountains to the west. It is also the first view you have of the island as you arrive, but the sight of your flight home arriving does not detract - there is so much noise from the Atlantic surf pounding on the rocks 100m below that you can scarcely hear the jets. We followed Underwood's walk 14. The description of the hairy bit of the walk is an exaggeration. It is not nearly as bad as that. I missed out on "the large rafts of Cory's Shearwaters" described in Steve Whitehouse's 1984 report. As our check in time was at 15:00, we made an early start and were the first to make it out there. 
Little/Cattle Egret (an all to brief view of a bird flopping over the fence into the Porto Franco at Caniçal - but as it didn't have black legs and yellow feet .....), Sparrowhawk (female), Buzzard (1), Common Sandpiper (Caniçal - 1), Turnstone (Caniçal - 4), Yellow-legged Gull (probably about 100 on the cliffs), Rock Dove (1; 3), Plain Swift, Grey Wagtail (Caniçal - 1), Berthelot's Pipit (14 - the car part at Ponta da São Lourenço must be the site to grip this species. They are so tame that I filled the frame with my 300m lens), Blackcap (1, Caniçal), Canary (lots), Goldfinch (flocks of 30 and 25), Spanish Sparrow (10 sparrows seen from the car in Machico and 10 elusive birds in Caniçal were presumably this species though Whitehouse mentions House sparrows in Caniçal. I failed to find Rock Sparrow (missing from my life list) and was somewhat disconcerted by the exceedingly sparrow-like chirps of distant pipits. 
Systematic list 
I have highlighted the endemic (and near-endemic) subspecies in bold. a: accidental according to BWP 

English name	Danske navne	Latin name	Madeira	
Grey Heron	Fiskehejre	Ardea cinerea	30/12 Funchal	
? Little Egret a	Silkehejre	Egretta garzetta	30/12 Canical. A tantalisingly brief view of a small egret seemed to be this species.	
Cattle Egret a	Kohejre	Bubulcus ibis	28-30/12 Funchal 5 to 8 	
Greylag Goose a	Grågås	Anser anser	25/12 São Jorge 	
Sparrowhawk	Spurvehøg	Accipiter nisus granti	24/12 Funchal, 	
Buzzard	Musvåge	Buteo buteo	4-10 a day. Most numerous on the north coast.	
Kestrel	Tårnfalk	Falco tinnunculus canariensis	2-5 seen most days over the whole island. e.g. 5 at Faial.	
Oystercatcher a	Strandskade	Haematopus ostralegus	28/12 Funchal	
Common Sandpiper	Mudderklire	Tringa hypoleucos	25/12 São Jorge (heard); 30/12 Caniçal 	
(Ruddy) Turnstone	Stenvender	Arenaria interpres	24/12 Funchal 10 at the river mouths by bus terminal and 2 by the marina; 30/12 Caniçal (4)	
Herring Gull	Sølvmåge	Larus argentatus	24/12 Funchal, about 20	
Yellow-legged Gull	Middelhavssølvmåge	Larus cachinnans atlantis	23/12 Funchal (2 plus immatures); 28/12 Ribeira Brava (30)	
Lesser Black-backed Gull	Sildemåge	Larus fuscus graellsii	24/12 Câmara de Lobos	
Black-headed Gull	Hættemåge	Larus ridibundus	24/12 Funchal	
Rock Dove	Klippedue	Columba livia	23/12 Funchal	
Long-toed (Trocaz) Pigeon	Langtået Due	Columba trocaz	25/12 Ribeiro Bravo/Balcões 5; 28/12 Levada de Rabaças at Encumeada (1); 28/12 Curral de Freiras (3 pigeons seen briefly at Faial 25/12 might have been this spp. also 2 possible 28/12 on Levada do Norte at Ribeira Caixa)	
Plain Swift	Ensfarvet Sejler	Apus unicolor	Mostly Funchal, but over all (below 1000m), flocks of 4 to 20.	
Skylark a	Sanglærke	Alauda arvensis	26/12 Ponto da Darco (31)	
Grey Wagtail	Bjergvipstjert	Motacilla cinerea schmitzi	25/12 Ribeiro Bravo; 5 São Jorge, 9 on north coast.	
White Wagtail	Hvid Vipstjert	Motacilla alba	singles 26/12 Porto Moniz; 26/12 Ponto da Darco (a flock of 5 seen at susk at 24/12 Câmara de Lobos were probably this spp.)	
Berthelot's Pipit	Kanariske Piber	Anthus berthelotii madeiriensis	27/12 Pico de Arieiro (single at first viewpoint); 30/12 (14) São Lourenço, 6 fighting over crumbs in the car park. This is clearly the site for this species.	
Robin	Rødhals	Erithacus rubecola	Commonly heard, rarely seen.	
Blackbird	Solsort	Turdus merula cabrerae	widespread	
Blackcap	Munk	Sylvia atricapilla heneiken	Widespread, 5-20 a day. Skulking - heard more often than seen. I didn't think that these differed markedly from the nominate form.	
Firecrest	Rødtoppet Fuglekonge	Regulus ignicapillus madeiriensis	Common, though not on south coast e.g. 16 along Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela.	
Chaffinch	Bogfinke	Fringilla coelebs madereinsis	25/12 Ribeiro Bravo (5)	
Island Canary	Kanariefugl	Serinus canaria	Over all. Singly, and in flocks <30 e.g. Santana	
Goldfinch	Stillits	Carduelis carduelis	25/12 Faial (8); São Jorge (4)	
Spanish Sparrow	Spansk Spurv	Passer hispaniolensis	26/12 São Jorge; 10 possibles 30/12 in Machico and 10 possibles in Caniçal)	
Comments and travel information
We travelled with the Danish Package operator, Larsen. A week cost 4000 Kr. (for a basic hotel) and we gave an additional 1000 Kr. for the car, a Peugeot 106. Travel on Madeira is not rapid for topographic reasons. I rarely left 2nd gear. The road net on Madeira is rapidly expanding. A motorway west from Funchal to Ribeira Brava (30 Km.) was completed earlier this year. Motorways are under construction north of the centre of Funchal and from Porto Novo and Caniço between the airport and Funchal. The north coast road is narrow, but several tunnels are under construction between Ponta Delgada and Porto Moniz. Road construction is also taking place on the south coast west of Ribeira Brava and across the island north of Ribeira Brava and Curral de Freiras. 
Literature.
•	Underwood, J., and P. (1998). Landscapes of Madeira, Sunflower Countryside Guide. 5th Edition. ISBN 1-85691-075-X. Seems to be available in most major languages on the island - e.g. tourist information office in Funchal. This inexpensive guide (OK you can cut out a couple of beers one evening) is essential for walkers (and useful to birders). My only gripe is that the (largely excellent, though small) maps cover the walks, and do not help (much) in driving around or in making spontaneous detours. 
•	We had the Politiken pocket Guide to Madeira and the Azores. "Turen går til Maderia og Açorerne". This is in Danish and was adequate. (6 edn ISBN 87 567 5767 0) 
•	The various free tourist maps were OK for driving around, but the rapid development of the road net means that they are confusing i.e. which of the roads depicted as under construction are actually finished? 
•	I took Jönsson as field guide and as a consequence had no pictures of Plain Swift or Berthelot's Pipit. Use The Collins Bird Guide (Lars Svensson, Killian Mullarney, Dan Zetterstrom and Peter J Grant) instead. 
•	I refered to HBOW, BWP and Howard and Moore for the Scientific names of the races. 
•	Flora: 
Franquinho, L.O. and Da Costa, A. of Maderia - Plants and Flowers. 15th edn (1996) Francisco Ribeiro & Filhos Lda, Funchal. ISBN 972-9177-13-9 (From Subbuteo) 
•	Trip reports available on the web: 
•	Andreas Bruun: http://www.xnet.com/~ugeiser/Birds/TripReports/Madeira98.html 
•	Piiponens: http://www.xnet.com/~ugeiser/Birds/TripReports/Madeira95.html 
•	Cursorius Photo Library http://www.cursorius.com/mac_madeira.html 
•	other reports: 
•	Trip Report: Madeira, 21 August-4 September 1996, Jon Gallagher 
•	Trip Report: Madeira, 19-31 August, Gordon Richards 
•	Trip Report: Madeira, 12-19 August, Trevor Davies 
•	Trip Report: Madeira, April 1990, J Hornbuckle 
•	Madeira - a short birdwatching guide, Steve Whitehouse 
•	A birdwatchers Guide to Portugal and Madeira, C. C. Moore, and G. Elias